Dior’s new scent couture

Crone is loving the way Dior’s deftly managing nostalgia these days.  Last year, the house  showcased sublime vintage fragrances Diorella, Dioressence, Diorissimo and Eau Fraiche alongside new ‘eclusive’ Forever and Ever Dior in the Les Créations de Monsieur Dior collection. Now, in-house perfumer Francois Demachy unveils his five year tribute project, La Collection de Christian Dior at The Maison de Parfums on Selfridges’ ground floor. These days, fashion houses with any scents are keen to flaunt their heritage with ‘collections privés’ set apart from the masses. All ten of Dior’s reflect events in the house’s history and although brand new, pack a powerful old-school evocation. New Look 1947 is a woody tuberose bouquet that begs to be worn with a cinched waist and shoulder pads. The honeyed amber incense of Mitzah evokes Mitzah Bricard, Dior’s feline muse with a fondness for leopard prints. Soft, optimistic Milly-La-Forêt captures the mill house where Dior entertained artist friends, such as Jean Cocteau; while fresh, aromatic Granville echoes his childhood home in Normandy, built on a cliff overlooking the English Channel on one side and pines on the other. Cologne Royale is a gloriously citrus nod to the 18^th century cologne tradition and the elegant European courts that so influenced Dior. Ambre Nuit is a suavely strident amber-rose chypre, while Bois d’Argent is almost weepily soft and powdery with an iris and incense heart. Three masculine scents round up the collection, although anyone who likes their scents with a bit of welly will doubtless want to dabble.  Crone is strangely drawn to Eau Noire, a dark lavender and liquorice beauty that reminds her of a hot night in Provence. Vétiver is a caffeine-laced, leathery brew redolent of smoking rooms in gentlemen’s clubs of the 1930s; and Leather Oud is full of middle-eastern promise. Stuck for choice? The best time to choose a scent is before lunch, Francois Demachy advises. When you’re hungry, your sense of smell is keener.  When you’re full, it’s down the tubes. Sniff first, then succomb to Yo Sushi (just off the Food Hall) is Crone’s best counsel.

Fragrances in La Collection Christian Dior at The Maison de Parfums, Selfridges cost from £120 for 125ml.